Emporio Armani’s Spring-Summer 2023 collection is imbued with a summer idyll – WWD

Giorgio Armani enveloped his runway theater with a wicker projection for his latest Emporio show, giving his guests the feeling of being wrapped in a giant picnic basket.

This powerful symbol of summer idyll foreshadowed an attractive and airy Emporio Armani collection, ideal for destination weddings, a walk in the park, a dinner on a terrace or a chic party on the beach. Nothing smacks of work commitments or corporate stress, though the tailoring was smart enough for a scorching day on Wall Street.

Armani opened the display with loose navy layers, some printed with broken stripes. His long-leg pants opened up at the bottom, airing out the ankles and showing off his version of the bulbous, squishy foam shoes championed by Kanye West and Matthew Williams. Armani looked like tufts of bucatini, or roughly woven wool.

Half-moon sunglasses and asymmetrical necklines recalled the designer’s glory days in the ’80s, but he also touched on the trends and items that were going wild in Milan: baggy cargo pants, cropped camp shirts and bohemian, surfer style. To punctuate this last idea, a dancer dressed in a tie-dye blazer and pajama-like pants closed the show, flaunting taut abs and wiggling his long dreadlocks.

But for a side trip to Stabilo yellows and greens, this self-assured show exuded classic Armani ease: featherweight seersucker jackets billowing over bare skin, sweatshirts smeared with seaside scenes impressionists and jackets with tie prints matched with baggy trousers.

Show guests were invited to cross the street and see an exhibition of Magnum photographs at the Armani Silos, many of which were photographed on seasides around the world. All that was missing from this pleasant fashionable picnic were the sandwiches.

Luz W. German