The season’s jackets have exaggerated shoulders, paired with leggings and worn with peaked goggles and molded trainers. A silver sequined costume was worthy of the stage, with skimpy eyeglass frames perched on the nose in a way more reminiscent of sci-fi lasers than reading glasses. A bold graffiti-adorned streetwear ensemble was complemented by a large blue knit cap that gave a Marge Simpson vibe.
If the flash is part of the Dolce&Gabbana repertoire as much as its tailoring, what was more unexpected were the men’s skirts. A tweed midi belted with a gold chain was worn with a ripped DG t-shirt and leather collar. A black kilt had a sweater scrawled with DG graffiti. A shimmery pink-to-gold mini dress or long tunic, depending on your turn, was paired with matching leggings.
Nothing about this season’s skirt silhouette on the Milan menswear catwalk comes as a surprise to the designers of London-based label JordanLuca, which made its Milan debut.
“I think the menswear spectrum is so wide now,” said Jordan Brown, who started the brand with Luca Marchetto four years ago. “We are so post, post, post, what is menswear and womenswear.”
Tailored kilts, some with tulle inserts, are a mainstay of the season at JordanLuca.
“The thing about the kilt is that it’s 4 or 5 meters (yards) of fabric. It’s really technical, it’s a technical garment. Why wouldn’t a man wear it? Folding, pleating, sewing. It’s pretty hard to do,” Brown said backstage.