Even in a world increasingly obsessed with the metaverse, physical fashion weeks remain indicators of our wardrobe trends. Over the past two years, these highs have oscillated, largely due to Covid-19 and its variants, between digital, in-person, and “phygital” presentations. Despite the upheaval, the fact remains that there’s no more stylistically powerful showcase of what’s to come than these events – and they’re not always just about clothes: the weeks of fashion are starting conversations about identity and self-presentation, and how these are changing. attitudes are part of or reflect popular culture.
Kanye West and Julia Fox arrived together at the Kenzo fashion show. Credit: Pascal Le Segretain/Getty Images for Kenzo
The latest iteration of Paris Fashion Week, which has unveiled an abundance of menswear for the Fall/Winter 2022 season, has taken a demolition turn in old menswear conventions in the ongoing establishment of a new normal. With ideas that were often dismantled or mixed between genders, infused with surrealism and other uninhibited motifs, the designers pushed forward an agenda that felt broader – and braver – than usual.
Read on for highlights from seven notable shows.
Buzz in the front row at Kenzo
Designer and musician Nigo, who founded the globally revered streetwear brand A Bathing Ape in 1993, presented his very first collection for the Kenzo brand in front of a lively crowd including a denim-clad Kanye West (or Ye as he prefers) who was there with Julia Fox (Fox wore a denim look by Schiaparelli). Pharrell Williams was also spotted wearing eye-catching Tiffany & Co. diamond-rimmed sunglasses.
Pharrell Williams at the Kenzo show wearing a pair of Tiffany & Co sunglasses. Credit: Victor Boiko
The show was the first show for new artistic director, Nigo. Credit: Pascal Le Segretain/Getty Images
While stylistic references to the year 1970 were seen in the form of embroidery and patches on berets and varsity jackets, there was a fashionable trend in the collection, with myriad separate pieces and use confident of the plaid, pattern and color. Tailored pieces and workwear draw an asexual silhouette.
Big ideas at Loewe
Playful images and bare skin were key elements of the Loewe show. Credit: Peter White/Getty Images
For Fall ’22, Anderson offered an overcoat adorned with Christmas lights, denim micro-shorts, a gloved sweater with long tendrils of fabric extending from the fingertips, and a sweater with a shaped keyhole. of heart that exposed the left nipple. He also sent a knit muumuu featuring a meme-worthy cat with a budgie on its head. The designer told media that the collection was inspired in part by what we see – day in and day out – on our phone screens.
A last moment at Louis Vuitton
Another defining moment was the late Virgil Abloh’s latest collection for Louis Vuitton. The lineup was fantastical and dreamlike, and it played with the signatures and hints that Abloh had woven into his work throughout his three-and-a-half years at home before his untimely death last year. There were men in skirts, lace kits worn as wings, hats with pointy ears, a Wizard of Oz motif, colorful Keepall bags, comic book-style artwork, and much more (like this was typical of Abloh, the ideas never really stopped).
Backstage at the Louis Vuitton fashion show. Credit: Matthieu Dortomb/Louis Vuitton
Avant-garde fun at Rick Owens
Helmets inspired by ancient Egyptian artifacts were affixed with blisters, and balaclavas became zippered face coverings, with tiny cutouts for visibility. A sleeveless t-shirt impetuously spelled the word “urinal.”
Rick Owens adorned his new collection of functional light bulbs. Credit: Valerio Mezzanotti/OwensCorp
The collection included shirts bearing unusual slogans such as “Subhuman”, “Inhuman”, “Superhuman”, and “Urinal”. Credit: Valerio Mezzanotti/OwensCorp
Gaultier indices at Y/Project
Y/Project’s show featured a range of body prints from head to toe. Credit: Peter White/Getty Images
Bluemarble – by Anthony Alvarez – held its first show this season. Alvarez coined his label after a nickname for planet Earth, which originated from a photograph taken by Apollo 17 in 1972. Blending American sportswear, European craftsmanship and Filipino artisanal touches, his production resulted in funky, fun and comfortable clothes such as a generously broken pair of denim pants, paneled in a twist cut with strips of sequined fabric.
The Bluemarble collection was full of fun details. Credit: blue marble
Kim Jones’ latest collection pays tribute to the founder of Dior. Credit: Stéphane Cardinale/Corbis/Getty Images
Jones’ introspection proved remarkable. Most important was his version of Dior’s famous “Bar” jacket, which was introduced in 1947 – for women. It features a cut and construction that adds subtle hourglass curves to the architecture of the garment, and Dior’s idea was so revolutionary at the time that it gave its creative oeuvre a nickname – the “New Look “. Jones’ men’s versions featured double-breasted finishes with topstitched seams.
Top image: Dior recreated the Alexandre III bridge for its menswear show.